A Riot of Colour and Design at Tamaki-ya
Published: August 22, 2017
Tamaki-ya, the traditional Japanese clothing store, is a legend in the Fukagawa area. Founded in 1924, it has provided top-quality clothing at affordable prices for generations of Koto-ku residents: amongst the many items it sells are kimonos, yukatas (light cotton kimonos for summer) and jinbei, a kind of two-piece set usually worn around the house by men. The main shop is a fixture on Shiryokan-dori Street near Kiyosumi-shirakawa Station, a must-see for any visitor to the area. The shop also has a rental kimono service and the friendly, helpful staff will offer assistance.
Today we’re visiting the branch store on Sunamachi Ginza. Opened in 1982, the shocking pink exterior is impossible to miss and a foretaste of the riot of colour and design to be found within.
Mr. Maekawa, the manager is apologetic. “It’s quiet here today,” he says, “As everyone is down at the main shop preparing for the Fukagawa Festival. We provide a lot of the happi coats and other things worn by the mikoshi (portable shrine) carriers”.
The Fukagawa Hachiman Festival, held in the middle of August at Tomioka Hachiman Shrine near Monzen-nakacho Station, is one of the three biggest Shinto Festivals of old Edo. Begun in 1642, it features a vast number of omikoshi, the large portable shrines that are paraded through the streets. Once every three years it expands into the Hon-matsuri (main festival) when the Imperial Mikoshi leads a parade of some 120 shrines, many of which are only viewable on this day.
Spectators throw water over the seething crowds as they sweat under the weight of the shrines. Here we see a pair of white festival jikatabi: they may look like ordinary traditional jikatabi footwear, but in fact have hidden air pockets in the sole to protect the feet of the shrine carriers.
The principal business of Tamaki-ya is kimonos and they have a beautiful selection.
The finely detailed design is stunning,
Both delicate and exquisitely beautiful.
This year, denim kimonos are all the rage, for both men and women. Worn with an antique obi (belt) they are both stylish and practical, as they don’t require the extensive cleaning and care demanded by silk kimonos.
They are available in sizes M, L and LL. You would certainly cut a dashing figure striding around town in one of these very reasonably priced items (6,800 yen*).
Another interesting item is these sandals made from tatami, the rushes used to make floor-covering/mats in a traditional Japanese house. Attractive, strong and very comfortable, they make an excellent souvenir.
Tamaki-ya also stocks kimonos and accessories worn by boys and girls at the Shichi-go-san (seven-five-three) ceremonies to pray for their future health and prosperity. Gaily-coloured accessories.
And pretty sandals.
If you’ve spent any time in Japan during the summer you’ll have seen the brightly patterned cotton kimonos, known as yukata, worn to combat the heat and humidity.
They are especially popular with women and children attending the many firework displays held during July and August. Smaller sizes are also available.
These jinbei are both colourful and wallet-friendly,
While this one has a more traditional colour and pattern.
Maneki -neko, the lucky charm cats, are in evidence as well, on shopping bags.
And as ceramic figurines. Many of the items shown here are available through the official online shop.
As you can see Tamaki-ya is a treasure trove of design and colour. Next time you’re in the Sunamachi Ginza area, why not drop in; there’s something for everyone at Tamaki-ya!
Story and Photos by Stephen Spencer